If you: a) spent most of your youth designing outfits for your Barbie dolls instead of playing with your friends; b) read fashion magazines instead of school books, and c) ran a boutique out of your basement at the age of ten, you're destined to be a fashion designer. To put it another way, if you want to be the next Yves Saint Laurent, you should be thoroughly and utterly fascinated with fashion.
However, there are numerous facets to the job. Working as a fashion designer can entail overseeing a design team at a sportswear firm and creating your label. Although the former may not appear as glamorous as the latter, it will undoubtedly make your life less hectic. Starting your own brand takes a lot of time, effort, and hard work. Not to mention years of living just above the poverty line.
Selecting a Strategy
There are various methods to start a fashion career as there are design styles. Ralph Lauren's Polo empire began with a little tie collection sold to Bloomingdales. When he couldn't find a t-shirt he loved, Helmut Lang decided to create his own clothing store. Michael Kors established a consumer base by selling clothing in a stylish New York City store. However, most people believe that obtaining a fine arts degree in fashion from a reputable school is the most essential foundation for a design profession. An excellent school will not only teach you the craft, but it will also give legitimacy to your resumé. "We live in a brand-name society, and having the reputation of a prestigious school behind you certainly helps," says Carol Mongo, Director of the Fashion Department at Paris' Parsons School of Design.
Applying to a school
There are many institutions with fashion degrees, but only a few have the kind of reputation that can really propel your career. It is difficult to gain admission to these schools because competition is fierce and highly selective. You apply by submitting a portfolio of design drawings. "We can't teach you how to be creative; you have to bring your creativity to us and let us guide you," Carol Mongo adds. She advises students to gain some sewing experience before applying. Drawing is also a necessary talent for a designer because it is how you share your ideas. It's a good idea to have some drawing skills to construct an outstanding portfolio; taking art lessons will help you comprehend form and proportion. However, you do not need to be an experienced drawer to be accepted to a school. "The most crucial characteristic we look for in our pupils is that they are sincerely passionate and joyful about fashion," Mongo explains. "If you have great ideas but can't draw, there are always workarounds. You could, for example, put your creations on a mannequin and photograph it."
What school will do for you?
The majority of fashion programs last three to four years. You will learn drawing, color composition, and form in fine arts programs during that period. Pattern making, draping, and cutting techniques will also be covered. One of the most significant advantages of design schools is their tight collaboration with the industry. Parsons, for example, has "designer critic projects" in which established designers such as Donna Karan and Michael Kors collaborate directly with graduating students. Ambitious students have the opportunity to win essential honors and grants, which offer them a lot of attention and financial help. When graduating students display their collections at the end of the semester, the fashion show is a significant occasion. Many influential figures in the fashion business attend these shows to scout emerging talent. It's also an opportunity to be very provocative and gain media attention. Hussein Chalayan, for example, became instantly famous after displaying rotting clothing buried in his backyard for his Saint Martins graduation show.
Alternative routes
"Let's be honest, school isn't for everyone," adds Carol Mongo of Parsons. If all you want is a job in the fashion industry rather than a career as a designer, you probably don't need to go to school." If you want to work as a seamstress or pattern maker, you should definitely apply for an internship at a fashion firm and work your way up from there. However, there are numerous examples of well-known designers who began their careers as interns with no official training. For example, when he started working with men's wear designer José Levy, Dior's brightest new star, men's wear designer Hedi Slimane, had a degree in journalism. Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga is another spectacularly successful designer who learned the trade as an assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier. Typically, you apply for an internship by submitting a portfolio to a fashion firm of interest. However, contacting them ahead of time is a good idea to determine exactly what they require. It's also worth noting that competition is high, and getting an internship without a degree is extremely tough unless you have personal ties.
There are some designers, such as Luella Bartley, who launched their own firm after working as stylists for several years, gaining industry knowledge and a good marketing sense.
Understanding the business
Unfortunately, being creative isn't enough for a designer; you also need commercial savvy. As the fashion industry becomes more corporate-driven, it is critical to be aware of the business climate and grasp the mechanics behind it. Reading trade publications such as "Women's Wear Daily" on a regular basis will provide you with a wealth of useful knowledge. If you want to start your own business, you must be well organized and understand the fundamentals of economics. Many fashion schools are currently expanding their business curricula. "Our pupils must be intelligent enough to know how to negotiate a contract or choose a business partner," Carol Mongo adds. It's somewhat telling that many of today's most successful designers, such as Calvin Klein and Tom Ford, are active in all aspects of the business, from licensing tactics to ad campaigns to making outfits.
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